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#52356 - 08-24-08 03:01 PM
Mt. Ritter in September
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krisztianr
Member
Registered: 09-11-07
Posts: 19
Loc: Aliso Viejo Ca
(68.225.251.181)
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Going to attempt Mt. Ritter with a group of friends with varying levels of experience. Starting from Ediza, have been looking at different routes to the summit. Anyone that's been there recently, conditions, or comments are appreciated. I am assuming Ice Axe and Crampons are a must.
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#52369 - 08-24-08 08:01 PM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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MooseTracks
Member
Registered: 08-15-06
Posts: 1170
Loc: Bishop, CA
(71.119.62.249)
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krisztianr:
Here'sa link to my trip reports from a few weeks ago (sheesh is it already almost a month???).
If you are only doing Ritter, I would highly recommend the route up the SE Glacier or the Clyde Variation (specifics can be found in Secor). The snow conditions when we were there were entirely more amenable on that side than from the RnB Saddle (would probably require ice tools and rope/technical gear at this point, as it was like that a month ago). The sun cups were fairly deep on the SE side, again, a month ago, so I would think they're even deeper now.
Hope this helps. Have fun, be safe.
-Laura 
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#52372 - 08-24-08 09:03 PM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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Steve Larson
Member
Registered: 09-09-03
Posts: 233
(69.234.25.109)
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I'd suggest going with Laura's idea. Not only will the approach to the Ritter-Banner saddle be fairly icy and steep, the north face is loose, loose, loose.
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#52374 - 08-24-08 09:48 PM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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rixco99
Member
Registered: 02-07-03
Posts: 160
Loc: Temecula, California
(71.103.207.25)
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Krisztianr,
I did Ritter via the S/E glacier route from Ediza a few years ago in the month of August. I carried axe & crampons but I never used them. We were able to skirt the north edge of the glacier and stay on good rock all the way up. In hind-sight walking on the glacier in crampons may have been a little easier than scrambling on the rock.
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#52377 - 08-25-08 05:55 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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Alan
Member
Registered: 01-06-03
Posts: 373
Loc: St. Louis
(12.174.118.19)
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No recent beta but several trip reports and a detailed description and marked-up photos of the SE Glacier approach are on my web site under the "Mt. Ritter" section. In particular, look here for the route description.
The Ritter/Banner saddle approach has some high-pucker-factor icy snow and rotten rock above it. Not the best route for a group with varying degrees of experience.
The SE Glacier approach is about 95% class 2 snow and rock with a few bits of 3rd class snow depending on the snowfall and melt pattern. Definitely the preferred approach with your sort of group.
Remember that it's about 3,500' of gain from Ediza to the summit of Ritter, so it's a fairly strenuous day in any event. Plan on getting an early start so you get up the SE Glacier snowfield while it's still nice and firm for crampons. It'll be sloppy coming down but there aren't many places where a fall would be life-threatening if you have reasonable self-arrest skills.
Good luck on "my" mountain...let us know how the trip goes!
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#52418 - 08-26-08 06:05 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: Alan]
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krisztianr
Member
Registered: 09-11-07
Posts: 19
Loc: Aliso Viejo Ca
(68.225.251.181)
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Thank you all for the comments. This just solidifies our plans to do the SE Glacier Approach. I'll report back with pics.
Thanks again!
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#52419 - 08-26-08 07:17 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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MTBMaven
Member
Registered: 08-26-08
Posts: 2
Loc: Pasadena, CA
(75.142.54.49)
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I am going on this trip with Krisztian. I have been unable to determine from the readings I've done whether one can easily traverse to the S/E Clyde Variation coming off Banner? Or maybe a better way to state my question, if one wants to attempt both in one day and the S/E Variation on Ritter is the preferred route up Ritter what is the recommended route or order of attempts (Ritter then Banner or Banner then Ritter)?
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#52420 - 08-26-08 07:41 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: MTBMaven]
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MooseTracks
Member
Registered: 08-15-06
Posts: 1170
Loc: Bishop, CA
(71.119.62.249)
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MTBMaven:
I believe that typically when one is attempting both peaks, you connect at the saddle, gaining the North Face of Ritter, instead of attempting to traverse across to the SE glacier from the saddle. The only routes described by Secor in that area are the East Face and NE Buttress, rated Class 4-5. I believe that's the area in which a backpacker got stranded while we were there in July (SAR was ascending as we descended the SE glacier route to the canyon. If you look at my pics (like this one ) you can see that it's fairly cliffy between the saddle and the SE glacier.
Again, based on the conditions we saw a month ago, I wouldn't recommend getting on the glacier without ice tools, rigid boots, solid crampons, and roping up. Both the upper tongue of the glacier below the R-B Saddle and the final bit to get onto the rock of the north face were down to the ice, with minimal snow coverage. A slip getting up to the north face would mean a quick trip all the way down to Lake Catherine. Both Charles and myself knew we had gotten away with something when we stood above the glacier at last (after a lot of whimpering from me!). I would think descending from Ritter to the saddle would be highly unpleasant.
Hope this helps a bit. Here's a link to the entire set of photos, and there's a link to my TR in a post above.
-Laura
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#52422 - 08-26-08 09:54 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: krisztianr]
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MTBMaven
Member
Registered: 08-26-08
Posts: 2
Loc: Pasadena, CA
(204.89.11.103)
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Laura,
I read your trip report over on Mt Whitney board. It looked like a great trip. The photos were very helpful, thank you.
Everyone on the trip attempting the summit will have crampons and ice ax. Some will have lightweight crampons using trail shoes. I will be bringing my Makalus with solid crampons. We will also have a light short rope, harnesses (most with simple webbing harnesses), and a bit of climbing gear.
Given the mixed nature of our group it sounds as though we should go for Ritter, ascend and descend the S/E variation. This route seems to have the highest chance of success for our group.
What I am wondering is if others in the group who feel strong could descend the S/E variation and then traverse over to the B/R Saddle and make an attempt on Banner (obviously this route will make for a very long day). Does this idea sound ridiculous or unsafe?
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#52423 - 08-26-08 10:15 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: MTBMaven]
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MooseTracks
Member
Registered: 08-15-06
Posts: 1170
Loc: Bishop, CA
(66.13.254.210)
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What I am wondering is if others in the group who feel strong could descend the S/E variation and then traverse over to the B/R Saddle and make an attempt on Banner (obviously this route will make for a very long day). Does this idea sound ridiculous or unsafe?
I just don't think there's a good route to traverse directly from the SE glacier over to the below the RnB saddle. As well, the last tongue of snow/ice would be sketchy in both directions as it lies in shadow and was down to the old ice when we were there. I think the only option would be to descend all the way to the drainage floor and come back up the talus/scree to the glacier below the saddle. But from there up to the saddle it would be, again, unpleasant.
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#52461 - 08-26-08 10:24 PM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: MTBMaven]
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tomcat_rc
Member
Registered: 06-29-03
Posts: 627
Loc: Ridgecrest
(71.105.130.190)
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I am going on this trip with Krisztian. I have been unable to determine from the readings I've done whether one can easily traverse to the S/E Clyde Variation coming off Banner? Or maybe a better way to state my question, if one wants to attempt both in one day and the S/E Variation on Ritter is the preferred route up Ritter what is the recommended route or order of attempts (Ritter then Banner or Banner then Ritter)?
I think the only way to pull off both of these peaks (so late in the season) is to go from the Ritter-Banner saddle. That would separate you from your group. To do Banner first gives you both options of descending off Ritter. The route up Ritter from the saddle is first some mighty intense class III glacier travel and then one mighty loose chute. It would be foolish to descend this way if you did not first go up that way unless you are a very proficient mountaineer - and then not by yourself(for safety sake). Save that for another trip and do the route that gives your group the biggest chance for success. We did both peaks during Labor Day - of the 5 or 6 groups we saw out that weekend - ours was the only one that managed to pull off both peaks. Most of the groups looked like they were getting to camp well after dark.
My recommendation would be to hike to give the group the best success and save Banner for another day or a more dynamic group.
But the Minerretes are some of the most beautiful peaks in the Sierras - you cannot go wrong hiking anywhere in that area. Just don't forget to bring back pictures.
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#52466 - 08-27-08 06:07 AM
Re: Mt. Ritter in September
[Re: tomcat_rc]
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krisztianr
Member
Registered: 09-11-07
Posts: 19
Loc: Aliso Viejo Ca
(68.225.251.181)
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Thanks for that input. We will surely have a great time. Will report back with pics for you all. 
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